A First Order Guide to West African Food for People Who Have Never Tried It

Order jollof rice and suya first. Between them they cover a seasoned red rice and a grilled skewer meat, both of which sit close enough to things you already eat that nothing about the meal will feel like an exam. Neither one is watered down for newcomers.

That's the recommendation in a sentence. What follows is the reasoning, the order to work outward in, and the two or three questions worth asking on the phone before you commit to anything.

Why start with jollof rice?

Because it needs no translation. Jollof rice is rice cooked inside a seasoned tomato and pepper base, so it absorbs everything as it swells instead of being dressed at the end. If you've eaten a Spanish rice, a paella, or a jambalaya, your brain already has a slot for it, and the first bite goes into that slot without friction.

It is also the most useful dish to have tried, because it turns up everywhere. Across Nigeria, Ghana, Senegal, Sierra Leone, Liberia, and the Gambia, in different versions with different rice and different peppers, jollof is the dish everyone has an opinion about. Having eaten one version gives you a reference point for the entire region.

Practically, Pan Jollof Rice runs $85 for a full pan on the catering list at 1172 Park Place in Crown Heights. That's the unit for a room. If you're feeding one person, call before you order a tray.

Why is suya the right second dish?

Because grilled meat on a skewer is a universal idea and suya is the West African version of it, which means the format is familiar and only the seasoning is new.

Suya is thin-cut meat rubbed in a dry ground-peanut spice blend and grilled fast over direct heat. It's Nigerian, specifically rooted in Hausa cooking in the north, and it's street food in the proper sense, sold hot off open grills. The rub is dry, not wet, so what you get is a crust and not a sauce, and the peanut in it reads savoury and toasted rather than sweet.

Fried Chicken Suya is $120 for a full pan and Lamb Suya is $165. Chicken is the gentler introduction because the meat is familiar and the rub is doing all the unfamiliar work. Lamb is the more assertive one. The confusion most people arrive with is that suya is a version of jerk or of barbecue, and it is neither, because those two rely on wet marinades and long slow smoke where suya relies on a dry rub and fast fire.

What order should you work outward in after that?

Roughly from familiar to unfamiliar, which lines up with how far each dish is from something you have already eaten.

None of that is a difficulty ranking. Cassava leaf is not harder to like than jollof rice. It is just further from anything a New York palate has a slot for, and unfamiliar food lands better when it is not the first thing you meet. What yassa is is the one most people have never even heard the name of, and it is worth reading before ordering it.

What should you ask before you order?

Three things, and none of them are answered on this page for good reasons.

Heat is the first. Across West Africa, chilli quantity is a cook-by-cook decision, not a regional standard, and there's no scale written down anywhere for any of these dishes. If it matters to you, ask the kitchen, and ask about the specific dish. Asking about the cuisine gets you nowhere.

Peanut is the second, and it is not a footnote. Groundnut stew is built on peanut in quantity and suya carries a ground-peanut rub. Any question about how peanut is handled in a given kitchen goes to the people cooking, not to a web page. The number is 718-799-7160.

How anything is prepared is the third. If you avoid a particular ingredient or a particular meat, ask about the specific dish before you order. Menus across this cuisine do not usually carry that detail and no honest page can supply it on a kitchen's behalf.

How do you order West African food in Crown Heights for a first try?

The published list at 1172 Park Place is a catering list, which means every price on it is for a full pan and never for a single order. That's the right unit for feeding a room and the wrong unit for feeding yourself.

So the practical route is a phone call to 718-799-7160 to work out what makes sense for the number of people you have. If you are catering a gathering, West African catering in Brooklyn sets out what each tray costs and how they combine.

Two more things worth knowing before you go. The Nigerian-rooted dishes here are specifically suya and jollof rice, and which Nigerian dishes you can order in Crown Heights is honest about where that list stops. And this kitchen also cooks Southern and soul food, which means a first West African order can sit on the same table as fried chicken and collard greens for anyone in the group who wants a familiar plate. Catering for a room with mixed tastes is the practical version of that.

One last framing. West African food is not one cuisine and treating it as one is the mistake most first-timers make. Senegal, Nigeria, Ghana, and Sierra Leone cook differently from each other, sometimes very differently. Work through the list above and you end up with five reference points instead of one blurry impression. If you also want to know why it is not the same thing as Caribbean food, which is the other common confusion in this borough, West African food and Caribbean food are not the same thing draws the line properly.